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Clairemont Bowl:

PB Point
Wave height - Overhead
Conditions - Excellent, not too steep, open faced

The wave didn't break too steep, but was still so fast and bumpy that I had to find a balance to slow down and not outrace it.

I got to the point before the sun rose when the air was still damp and the ocean was surrounded by the blue aura of night.  I didn't want to surf in the dark so I left to get a carton of milk and a breakfast bar before returning to reasses the situation.

There was a special camaraderie that day between strangers; a young, long-haired redhead asking me excitedly if I saw him bailing on that last wave.  I told him he shouldn't have closed his eyes.  Exchanging notes on the shifting conditions with a man closer to my age, his reminiscent exclamation to me recalling how we were catching wave after wave when we first paddled out.

After a few waves, I moved from what I considered north Tourmaline to the actual Point.

After catching another mushy right that faded away graciously after a couple turns without closing out, I made my way to the boil right in front of a steep section.  I ended up on the wrong side of a massive set, as usual, and endured a round of massive walls of whitewater.  

Made my way back out - and had the discipline not to go for the first wave that teasingly rolled through.  The one I was waiting for finally came, took it well past the point and unlike the first several I caught which were fast and furious - this one reformed for me and redeveloped for a few modest turns and a whole lot more time allowing me to stand - lean from one side to another - and bask in the glory of rolling across the water from the point well past the stairs where I had walked down that morning a lifetime ago.