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December 2 - Surf Report 12/02/2011
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SCRIPPS

SIZE - Overhead

WAVE QUALITY  - Massive Closeouts

The few corners made it worth the effort - one of them served up a nice, carevable right and the other shoved me into a dark, cavernous barrel for a split-second before shoving me to the bottom of the sea. 

I would have stayed out there longer had I not wasted half the morning driving to the break from PB, only to realize that I had forgot my wetsuit, and then redoing the commute burning up precious, pre-work surfing time.
 


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