December 4 - Surf Report 12/04/2011
BLACKS Size - Chest-Shoulder Hi Quality - Poor to fair The air was crisp and the sky was of the bright and blue variety that I love so dearly. Surfline reported the waves as "GOOD" quality, which I have not seen bestowed upon any break by them this year. 12/4 was definitely not the best day of the year. That honor goes to that one day in June or July I went w/ D.M. and Blacks was breaking big and open in the southernmost end of the beach with no one else but me and my buddy to catch epic, rights all morning. This session, on the other hand, did not provide as open waves and the crowd, due to Surfline's report, was in full force. The most open, carevable wave I had was a solid right where I was forced through no fault of my own to one-punch a guy off of. I have foregone the forearm shiver in lieu of the fist, but in so doing have vowed not to follow up the altercation with any verbal missives whatsoever. I credit this development to a certain maturity I've developed. I felt bad after, as I always do, but not so bad given that I was similarly punched in the back the day before as a result of my own misconduct at the Ocean Beach Pier. Either way, my wife still disapproves of such behavior. She still reminds me of my attack on someone years ago at Crystal Pier, describing my actions as looking "crazy." CommentsLeave a Reply |
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